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Stingray Shenanigans

6/16/2017

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Picture
Stingray - just steps from shore in Bahia Candeleros.
Stingray Shuffle
The Stingray Shuffle is a dance performed by beach-going visitors each year. Here in the Sea of Cortez, every public beach posts signs warning waders to shuffle their feet in shallow water. Stingrays hide from predators by burrowing flush with the sea floor, nearly invisible to us unsuspecting humans. So this sand-agitating, Mr.-Robot -shuffle-step signals the slithery specters to move… hopefully before you step down on one, resulting in a toxic spike jammed in your foot.

But I always thought those billboard notices were a tad overrated. As much as we have been in and around the water, our stingray sightings seemed pretty sporadic. We typically observe them either from the boat or snorkeling in 10-15ft depths, gliding over the sand or just resting on the bottom, one at a time, maybe two. Always comfortably distant… no close encounters… and too fast for film. But this year, I’ve seen more in two weeks than the nearly three seasons we’ve spent in Mexico combined. I’m beginning to think May is Stingray Month.

Agua Verde Video – Sneaky Stingrays
Agua Verde beckons cruisers with its clear, turquoise green water so vibrant it seems fake, like someone dumped in a barrel of Easter egg dye. We anchored at a depth of only 10ft in the east lobe where the sea floor was clearly visible. Peering down into our private fishbowl, we spotted a couple stingrays right away, skimming the white sandy bottom. Later, while swimming around a large rocky outcropping, I saw a couple more, 20ft below. I held my breath, dove down 6ft and tried GoPro stalking. This attempt was futile though – they wisely fled, bolting away like a Stinger missile.

Then, as I was filming a tiny, blue damselfish, another surprised me from behind, gliding by nonchalantly about two feet away. Holy schmeel schmazel. He just about scared my shorty wetsuit right off me. But I actually got that one on video - only by accident. After I gathered my wits, I GoPro stalked that one, successfully this time. Remarkably, this stingray was pretty chill about the whole stalking thing. And I will name him Marky Mark… for being so calm and composed while I dashed after him like paparazzi.

Watching any kind of ray swim is just cool, be they giant manta rays, mobula/eagle rays or stingrays. It is somehow satisfying to witness their wings leisurely undulate, propelling their pancake physique so gracefully. Like swooping underwater butterflies. Only bigger. And with stingers. Don’t forget the stingers…

RayNado
As that sneaky stingray passed me initially, I could have reached out and touched him. But that would have been a bad idea. These are not slimy aquarium kittens with removed stingers to allow petting. These are real stingrays with real barbs, serrated knives essentially, that if shoved into your body really hurt. In fact, as I was in hot pursuit, I thought to myself…self…what are you doing? What if he decides he doesn’t appreciate your quest for good video? And turns around? And calls over some friends? I can picture the movie trailer now: “Stingraynado – The Baja Menace”. Or not. “Raynado”? I’ll work on that one.

 So…yah, I slowed down and let Marky flutter away, while he was still in a jolly mood.

Candeleros takes the Cake
Bahia Candeleros is a shallow crescent bay whose crowning glory is the resort oasis of Villa del Palmar. Best known (at least according to us) for their expensive but delicious hamburgers, we travel-weary cruisers could think of nothing else for two days prior. Priorities, people. Stomachs satisfied, snorkeling was priority #2.

I’ve swum the eastern shore here before with not a single ray sighting. But this time we shooed several away in a foot of water just scooting the dinghy onto shore. What the heck?! While prepping our gear, the four of us marveled at several more visible in the clear water. I have never seen a stingray from shore, hanging out 2ft from the water’s edge, noticeably unafraid of our presence… let alone multiples at once.

Mmmmmm. While interesting to observe, I like seeing stingrays by the onesie’s or twosie’s. Not the 10-sies or 20-sies. Not when they might be burrowed in the sand at every footstep. And not when they refuse to scoot away from my shadow. I’m just weird like that.

Fin Flop
Do I really want to go swimming with all these guys? Especially in these initial 2 ft depths. I mean, it’s one thing to get your foot stung (I haven’t yet, fortunately). It’s quite another to put your whole body up for grabs (ala Steve Irwin who was fatally stung in the heart.)

Well, we’re here, let’s do this. Instead of waiting to don my fins in the water though, I put them on at the beach. Better to have that extra 1ft of spacing between me and them, eh? I looked memorably moronic, duck-walking and flopping with my large yellow flippers. My intended crazed commotion (albeit awkward) would have scared away a shark. Or, more likely, attracted one. Hoping I was in the clear, I face-planted into the 2ft pool.

Everywhere I looked, there they were. Crikey.

What IS this place? A stingray incubation facility? Wow. There’s one over there. And another over there. And three down there and two more on the rocks… and on and on. We probably saw 20-30 just in this one small area. Brian and I usually point out interesting things to each other as we are swimming, but with stingrays hovering all around, we felt no need. Until…

Strangely Still Stingrays
Brian called out to me to “come over here”...which sounds a lot like “mmm orrrre earrr” under water. I sashay over to where he is staring at something. Two somethings. One on top of the other, but the bottom one is upside down. OMG. Is THAT what I THINK it is? Yes. Yes indeedy-do. Apparently I was right… this IS a stingray incubation facility.

Leave it to us to stumble upon yet another species, well, uh, having fun. (We came across mating frogs, butterflies and walking sticks last year.) Man, I wish I’d brought the GoPro instead of the camera. Eyeballing me with suspicion as I zoomed in for the shot, the intimate couple was none too thrilled with me invading their private time. Well, you’re doing it here right out in the open, so what do you expect?

“OK…work it… come on, at least pretend you’re having fun…no? OK then…just… say cheese!” Click, click, click.

And here are my up close and personal stingray porn stills. You’re welcome.
 
Fun Stingray Facts:
  • A group of stingrays is called a fever.
  • I’ve since learned the month of May IS stingray month. Apparently, they are quite prolific in late spring.
  • The three chief species in the Sea of Cortez are Reef, Round or Cortez Stingrays. These types don’t get much bigger than a foot wide and their toxic barbs are not fatally poisonous.
  • Peeing on it is NOT the proper treatment for a stingray wound. (Although it can work for jellyfish stings, as would any other mild acid like vinegar.)
  • Soaking the affected area in hot water, reportedly over 110degrees, breaks down the toxins faster. The biggest risk is infection, so being several hours away from a doctor in the middle of nowhere is reason enough to be cautious.

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Stone Scorpionfish
Have you ever wondered: “What’s the ugliest fish in the world?” Well, look no further. Scroll through my gallery to the very end. There you will find what I believe is a Stone Scorpionfish. Unlike an octopus who can transmute himself into the shape of a coral outcropping or rock, a Stone Scorpionfish already looks like one. The fish I found was resting in white sand next to a rock. But this “rock” just looked odd. I wasn’t sure of what I was seeing at first since he was frozen in place… waiting for dinner to glide by, I presume. Not only are they butt-ugly, they too, sport highly toxic spines. If stepped on, the wounds are similar to getting zapped by a stingray. Except worse. An infection can be deadly. With stingrays and scorpionfish and porcupinefish and sea urchins – why is everything in the Sea trying to stab me?
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Two Years in Review

7/29/2016

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Picture
Sunrise. Indigo sailing towards Isla Cerralvo, heading to Mazatlan. Photo by Starfire.
Two years?! Yup, I know right? It’s hard to believe! In May of 2014, Brian retired after 20 years in the Marine Corps and I quit my job of 17 years. We sold or donated most of our possessions and entered the Baja Ha Ha cruisers rally that October, sailing to Mexico on our 34ft sailboat, Indigo. Before leaving on this stupendous sojourn, the skeptics were in abundance.

“Wow, you sure you want to live on a boat full time?” (No, but we’re going to risk the attempt in order to escape the rat race for a while and see some of the world.)

“What about pirates?” (Haven’t seen or heard any stories of such on the West coast of Mexico.)

“I could never live with my husband in such tight quarters every second of every day.” (I do, and it’s no problem…I have my side of the boat and he has his.)

“How are you going to get food?” “Are you going to have to fish every day?” (We eat better in Mexico then we do in the States. It’s cheaper. Fishing not required.)

“No way, I’ll give you 6 months, tops. You’ll sell the boat and come back.” (…they’re still waiting.)

“You CAN’T do that!” (We CAN and DID.)

So… what’s the verdict?
Two years are gone, but we have no regrats. Not a single letter. Yes, we still enjoy living on a boat. No, we haven’t strangled each other, yet. Yes, we still want to continue the journey... we just don’t know where to, or when, or for how long... you can’t make these decisions lightly.

Stats
I have been asked (hounded, actually… sheesh… alright already) for an overview of our time here in the Sea of Cortez. So here are the stats after two seasons of cruising in Mexico:

Miles traveled:  (2yr totals)
2496 miles

Hours at sea:
575 hours on the water = 225 sailing hours + 350 engine hours since we left San Diego
​
Nights / passages at sea: 14 total nights (a night meaning dusk 'til dawn) / 9 total passages
3 nights straight, San Diego to Turtle Bay (Longest…and uber-tiring)
2 nights, Turtle Bay to Bahia Santa Maria (Worst. Big waves = mental breakdown. I don’t know if I can do this!)
1 overnight, Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas (Getting warmer. OK, we can do this. Truly felt like we accomplished something!)
1, Cabo San Lucas to Bahia de los Muertos (First tropical anchorage… “Ah, now THIS is cruising!”)
1, Playa Santispac to San Carlos (Brian’s best - sailed all the way, dolphin escort, no motoring!)
1, San Carlos to Playa Santispac (Marya’s cranky crossing, moonless night, no fun steering)
2, La Paz to Mazatlan (Our crossing w/Starfire was great! Finally learned how to sleep while sailing.)
2, Mazatlan to Playa Bonanza (Marya’s best - perfectly calm, skating-rink water, 24hrs straight motoring! Can you tell the difference now between my perfect crossing and Brian’s? Basically: motor vs. no motor.)
1, Punta Mangles to San Carlos (Now we are old hats…no biggie.)

Islands Visited: 6, Coronados, Danzante, Carmen, San Francisco, San Jose, Ispiritu Santos

Anchorages Visited: 44, many of these more than once

Favorite Anchorages:
Marya’s favorite anchorages – Isla San Francisco, Puerto Los Gatos

Brian’s favorite anchorages – Bahia de los Muertos, Caleta Mezteño

Best sunsets – Caleta Lobos

Best snorkeling  – Marya - Bahia Cobre, Brian - Los Gatos

Best week of seclusion – Caleta Mezteño, 2nd  Ensenada Grande

Clearest water – Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante

Best beach hotel – Bahia Candeleros

Best kayaking – Can’t decide: San Juanico, Agua Verde, Candeleros, Ensenada Grande, Honeymoon, Los Gatos – all good

Best tide pool strolling – Agua Verde

Coolest rock formations – Puerto Los Gatos

Best wildlife sightings – Isla Coronados (jumping mobula rays all evening), San Marte (more jumping rays and fish) and Bahia Cobre (fish galore and a bighorn sheep)

Most picturesque anchorage – Isla San Francisco (west)

Best cliff hike – Agua Verde; 2nd – Isla San Francisco

Best canyon hike – Steinbeck’s canyon in Puerto Escondido; 2nd – Ensenada Grande

Best rocky beach – Isla San Francisco (east)

Best sand beach – Playa Bonanza

Best shell beach – Punta Chivato

More Bests and Worsts, Firsts and Tidbits:
Most difficulty anchoring – Punta Mangles (due to strong winds)

Trickiest anchorage – San Juanico (multiple shallow reefs, plus someone inevitably has taken the good spot!)

Easiest anchorages – Coronados (south)

Anchorages we’ve entered in the dark – Timbabiche (first), Bonanza

Anchorages we’ve left in the dark – Timbabiche, Caleta Lobos, Ensenada Gallina

Anchorage in which we’ve re-anchored in the dark (not recommended) – San Juanico

Best anchorage for norther’ protection – Playa Santispac

Anchorages we’ve had all to ourselves – Lobos, Mezteno, Ensenada Grande (believe it), La Raza, Gallina, Amortajada (south)(where the biting no-see-um’s hung out, no wonder it was empty), Colorada, Perico, Coronados (south), Honeymoon (south), Mangles, Pulpito, Santispac, Santa Barbara, El Burro

Shared with only one other boat – Timbabiche, Punta Salinas, Cobre, Bonanza, San Francisco (east)
This endearing characteristic of the Baja Peninsula (lack of people) is why we enjoy it so much.

Best night’s sleep anchorage – Puerto Escondido
​
Worst night’s sleep – San Juanico (south swell caused us to re-anchor); Partida (idiot power boat dragging anchor)

Worst anchorage of all time (experts agree) – Bahia Amortajada (biting jejene’s)

First tropical anchorage (wow, we can see the anchor!) – Bahia de Los Muertos

Rolliest anchorage  – Los Frailies (so bad we didn’t even set the anchor, kept on going overnight), 2nd – San Juanico (see worst night’s sleep)

Windiest anchorage – San Evaristo (unexpected night blast), Playa Santispac (30kts but we knew it was coming and it wasn’t bad)

Worst beach – Ensenada de la Raza (I wouldn’t call this a “beach”, more like a mud pit)

Anchorage most happiest to arrive at (after sailing 2 nights in uncomfortable seas) – Santa Maria

Worst anchor neighbors encountered – Ensenada Grande & Partida (the two most populous spots)

Unsurpassed fish taco shack – Lupe and Maggie Mae’s in San Evaristo

Best bay if you like bees – Ballandra on Isla Carmen

Cool ghost towns – Bahia Salinas, Punta Salinas


Marinas:
Best Marina Ever – Camp Pendleton Marina

Best Mexico marina overall – Marina Costa Baja in La Paz ties with El Cid in Mazatlan, Palmira a close 2nd

Best pool – Marina Costa Baja

Best internet – Marina El Cid

Worst internet – San Carlos (1st yr, they’ve since stepped up to 2nd best!); Marina Mazatlan (2nd yr)

Best and ONLY Cable TV – El Cid

Best swimming beach – Costa Baja

Best (and hottest) place to do boat projects (like a refrigerator) – Marina San Carlos

Best marina for: canvas work – El Cid; varnish – Marina Mazatlan; engine repair – Palmira

First Mexico marina – Cabo San Lucas

Most expensive – Cabo San Lucas

Loudest – Cabo San Lucas

Cheapest – Puerto Escondido Moorings at $10/day; 2nd Cheapest – Marina San Carlos

Most cruiser-friendly – Marina Palmira

Best wildlife viewing – Puerto Escondido

Most remote – Puerto Escondido

Most resortish – El Cid

Nicest marina admin. – (aside from Camp Pendleton) Marina Palmira ties with Marina Mazatlan

Most surge – El Cid

Least surge/best weather protection – Costa Baja

Cleanest bathrooms – El Cid (hands down)

Best shower facilities – Costa Baja open-air showers at the resort pool ties w/ El Cid, but Palmira now comes in close 2nd with their brand new facilities

Worst bathrooms – Marya - Marina Mazatlan; Brian - San Carlos (the men’s bathroom is just BAD)

Marina restaurant with the most consistently good food & still cheapish – Hammerhead’s at Marina San Carlos

Favorite restaurant (but expensive) – Marina Azul at Marina Costa Baja, La Paz

What's on the agenda this season?
We will be spending the entire winter in La Paz this year (with our friends who are coming down on the Ha Ha) in order to explore the area further. There’s just not enough time to see everything in each anchorage even after two winters. Los Gatos, San Marte and San Francisco are must return-to’s to name a few; we missed several coves on Ispiritu Santos such as Gabriel, Candeleros and El Cardonal; I still haven't visited the baby seals of Los Islotos nor the whales in the Bay of LA.  After that, maybe we’ll have seen enough and want to move on down further south. Who knows? Since the majority of world cruisers we meet declare the Sea of Cortez as the best cruising grounds around, we are not in a rush to go anywhere else just yet... 
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Pining for Greener Waters in Agua Verde

6/4/2015

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Picture
Overlooking Bahia Agua Verde
May 13-16 Agua Verde
Much of this trip has been motoring so far, but we broke out the code zero (our red-colored, light-air genoa) on this leg to Agua Verde. At the right angle and with merely 3 kts of wind, the lighter material allows us to sail 2kts an hour; not fast, but who cares, we’re moving. It was so pleasant that I went below and made black bean/corn/tomato salsa with tortilla chips for lunch while sailing flat as a pancake.

Fluky weather…
Our first two days there were cool, overcast and spitting. Switchy winds occurred all day and night, quickly increasing enough to cause small chop for an hour, then die to nothing. We spoke to one boat that claimed to see 33 Kts while he was headed into the anchorage from the bay. Then another boat in the far east cove alleged he saw 30 kts whipping down into the cove from off the mountain. We were a mere ¼ mile away in the center and never had over 15-20.  We were almost afraid to go out in the yak for fear the wind would pick up like crazy and leave us stuck on the beach.

So instead we made water. I used the extra fresh water to clean the caked salt off our Eisenglass dodger windows and all the solar panels. The second day, about 4pm the wind died down and we finally got the yak out and headed to shore for the first time in two days. We had fish tacos at this shack on the beach…just a palapa roof with a sand floor. Our 2 excellent large fish tacos, plus 2 cokes, was 96 pesos, or $6.50. A steal, given that the fish was caught that morning by the local village fisherman.

Those first couple nights the wind died down toward evening and we slept to a comfy, gentle bob. Oh you know that means we’re in for it the next few nights.

What Green Water?
Everyone always says Agua Verde is their favorite spot. I haven’t seen any of this famous “green water” everyone raves about.  We are in 11 ft and STILL can’t see bottom.

The forecast called for more high NE winds so we decided to stay put for 2 more days. Fortunately, Agua Verde redeemed its namesake and blue skies over crystal clear waters materialized overnight.
Agua Verde is a pretty large anchorage, about a mile wide, essentially shaped like a cloverleaf with a large flat clove in the center (where we anchored). We discovered the beautiful green water (the “verde” part) by kayaking over to both the east and west coves. Finally green water!

In the east cove we walked the shoreline: witnessed a red-beaked bird pulling a meal out of the rocks, Brian got attacked by a dead carcass of manta ray that look like a face-hugger from the movie Aliens (see photo), walked through thousands of broken conch shells (looked like an area where people gutted them). Nice sandy shore, secluded cove, no road access, green water!

The west cove was picture perfect. Rocks lined the beach but filled in with fine sand just above the shoreline. A long spit of land extends out to the far north perfect for hiking up and over the tall rocky hillside to view the expanse and grandeur of the bay. We then picked our way along the shallow reef around a vertical-sided almost-island made of that same concrete-like rock encased with big shells and smaller rocks. Best hike so far.

The bounce.
The bounce began on the third night. Despite the boat pitching fore and aft, we successfully BBQ’d 2 bratwursts outside on the ‘veranda’ without them falling into the drink. Winds died. Still rolly. Beam on to waves for awhile, not fun. But we eventually turned back around and again pointed into them head on for most of the night. Up-down (pitch) is always better than side-to-side (yaw) motion in my opinion. It was a rolly night but we still slept well.

Day 4: We still couldn’t leave. The weather forecast was for stronger winds and although as benign as it felt in the anchorage, when we looked out to the sea we could see waves marching down the pass and did not wish to go out in them…Disappointing as we both wanted to leave. It was still rolly.

Greener pastures…
All the other boats that were here in the anchorage near us have left. The boats that HAVE come in have chosen to go to the greener west or east coves. 3 in the west and 2 in the east. They are the smart ones, I muse. We are in the center and are WIDE open to the lovely incoming swell. Each morning we half-contemplate upping anchor and moving over to, literally, greener pastures.  But ultimately Brian refuses to pull up the anchor and go into those coves, no matter how much flatter and comfortable their potential. Why?

Because our anchor is in like Flynn. It’s not going anywhere, we have been here for the last 3 days and can tell by our anchorwatch that we are not slipping. That is the best reason.

Because all the powerboats immediately head towards those little coves when they come in and they all swing different and we are now have an irrational fear of all powerboats dragging down on us.  Besides, it is always nicer anchored out by ourselves and not crowded in together worrying about playing bumper boats.

The pasture always looks greener on the other side, but those spots have potential hazards as well. We have so much open space here in the middle that if we were to drag in the middle of the night, we have lots of room to fix it. There’s no one else around to worry about hitting here. Those coves are shallower and if they aren’t as protected as they look from far away, they may end up being more dangerous due to the thinner (less deep) water that can pile up and create bigger swell. No reef to worry about dragging into. No wind whipping down the mountain pass at 30 kts. Etc, etc.
I reluctantly tend to agree with him. But that doesn’t mean I can’t blame him just the same for the result. It’s what women do.

So I keep peering over at the boats sitting in the other 2 anchorages, craving their potential tranquility. It’s gotta be at least half as bouncy as what I’m getting right now… Oh look, another boat just went in there…it’s filling up once again. Pretty soon it’ll be too late… there won’t be room… DO they know something we don’t?

So we sit here bouncing uncomfortably like a child’s beach ball in the surf. Bouncing, bouncing, bouncing. It’s not dangerous, no one is even close to being seasick, it’s not even that windy - not even 15 kts, it’s just annoying. Up.. down.. up.. down.. Brian says this is good practice. We have to get used to these minor rollies so we’ll be prepared when we get to the mainland and have to anchor off the coast where there are swells and surfing waves. Arrgh. Looking out into the cockpit from my vantage below decks: the mountains loom in and out of view, rising and falling away. A bottle tips over, the sink gurgles, the hull creaks. And those other boats are tucked nicely away, or so I imagine…. While we bounce.

Despite the bounciness I made chili: pouch of chilorio (basically canned shredded beef in a plastic pouch), can of fire roasted tomatos, garlic, ½ jalapeno, can corn, ½ can tomato paste, my only can of kidney beans. Bam! Later during dinner (bouncing, I might add), Brian looks over at the east cove and says “Nah, they’re rolling just as much as us.” Wishful thinking. Get out the binocs. I say, “Huh, another boat arrived. They went into the east anchorage too. Wonder why they didn’t come over here?” The water/pasture is always greener on the other side.

Beam on.
At 10pm, the wind dies completely. We are now beam onto the waves. NOT FUN. We roll 15 degrees side to side, holding ourselves onto the setee with stomach muscles. If I left my laptop on the seat it would slide off; laptops don’t have stomach muscles. I am getting a workout typing. More things clang and bang and fall.

I sigh exasperatedly. Especially when we get that wave that flip-flops us exaggeratedly and clanks everything all at once. Damn we should have moved. Shoulda, woulda, coulda. Too late, it’s pitch black out; I mean it, zero lights. Brian insists the wind will pick up from the south, as it always has, and put us in a better position to the waves. I know he is right, but it sure is taking way too long. This is the closest I have gotten to seasickness on the entire trip.

Suffice it to say, no one got much sleep. But as always, the swell did abate, and the wind picked up aligning us at a better angle. But not before making us (OK, me) extremely grouchy and tired the following morning. Despite the rolly nights, Brian thinks this place is super cool. I had high hopes for it, but it just didn’t seem to live up to my overly high expectations. The first two days of overcast and not being able to explore and the second two days of rolly nights sort of negated the beautiful green waters I finally found. I could never really relax there and enjoy it. But I did get some good photos of the boat from our awesome hike up the ridge and that was definitely worth the literal ups and downs.

Next stop: civilization.

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    Savannah
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    Serenbe Playhouse
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    Watermaker
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    Wilderness State Park
    Wind Generator
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