Upon arrival to the Baja side of the Sea, we hunkered down in Bahia Concepcion for nearly two weeks. Waiting out two separate “Northers” (high northwest winds) was easy in Playa Santispac, which has THE best northwest wind protection we’ve found so far… other than being in a slip. The 20-30kt constant blustery weather didn’t phase Indigo a bit as this ‘bay within a bay’ is so protected that we barely felt the chop… and zero swell. It is so well sheltered we had a hard time leaving our little bay of paradise.
During the super-windy stretches when we couldn’t go to shore, we read books, watched DVDs, I made corn bread and apple muffins and we watched the wind surfers. On calmer days we got out and paddled to various beaches to explore, chatted with some RVers on the beach and we sampled the two beach-side restaurants.
One day we kayaked to the adjacent beach, Playa Posada Concepcion… where the “rich folks” live. While Santispac consists of 2 restaurants and a bunch of RV sites, Posada is a civilized “sub-division” with 65 houses along the beach. Folks can get internet and satellite TV… but for cell service, one must travel to Mulege, 12 miles north. So we hear people with houses calling each other on VHF just like cruisers.
What? Actual Running Water?
I say “civilized” because for a $400/month utility bill, Posada residents enjoy all the amenities out here in the boondocks: consistent running water (people in other coves must truck theirs in), electricity (all solar everywhere else), etc. The town generator runs from 6am to 10pm every day. So you’d need a battery bank and inverter to run anything after 10pm, but mostly everything shuts down here come dark anyway.
The gigantic generator runs from Oct 1 to May 31st. Why? Everybody who can’t take the heat leaves for the summer… and that’s just about everybody. We learned only about 6-7 people stay through the entire year… that’s over all three residential coves combined: Posada, El Burro and Coyote. So we don’t feel so bad for not being able to hack the summers here!
Posada is fortunate to have two hot springs, one just off the beach in town and another literally adjacent to the sea shaded with a cute palapa roof. Both are lined in stone just like an in-ground hot tub. The water was definitely warmer that the sea, but a little suspicious… bug-wise… so we only dipped our feet. We chatted up an 80-yr-old woman who was selling her home right on the beach in front of the hot springs for $78k. She had lived there every winter for 16 years and absolutely loved it. You can’t beat it for price and amenities and most of all…peaceful living. With all the chaos that’s happening in the world, this sure feels like paradise.